KL Plaszow, Nazi Camp for Slave Labor in Krakow, Poland.
Krakow’s wartime concentration camp in the city’s right-bank
district of Plaszow was hell on earth even if in terms of
the sheer volume of atrocities it paled in comparison with
such conglomerates of the nazi death industry as
Auschwitz
or Majdanek. At its peak capacity the Plaszow camp
incarcerated 25,000 inmates at one time: men, women, and
children. In total, over three years of its existence,
roughly 150,000 people suffered imprisonment here – Jews of
Krakow
and from Poland’s other cities as well as Hungary,
Czechoslovakia, France, Belgium, and Romania but also
numerous Poles and Romanies. They were subjected to inhumane
treatment, hellish living conditions, diseases, starvation,
grueling slave labor, frequent beatings, and torture, and
many fell victim to brutal killings. More than 80,000 of the
Plaszow inmates died before the end of World War II, most in
the gas chambers of
Auschwitz-Birkenau.
Origins of the Plaszow camp dated back to the summer of 1940
when the German occupation authorities set up in the area a
forced-labor camp for the Polish prisoners. The proper
concentration camp was built in Plaszow in 1942. On January
14, 1945 the last group of inmates left for Auschwitz.
Geography of Krakow’s Plaszow concentration camp.
The concentration camp took up the southwest outskirts of
Plaszow district which is part of Krakow’s Podgorze borough
on the right bank of Wisla river. The Plaszow proper – the
Polish correct spelling Płaszów, pronounced Puashoof – lies
to the northeast behind Krakow Plaszow train station at a
crucial railroad junction.
The KL Plaszow concentration camp was situated just four
kilometers or so southeast from Krakow’s Rynek Glowny
central square. At first, it was set up on grounds of two
adjoining Jewish cemeteries, one at 25 Jerozolimska street,
another at 8 Abrahama street. Later on the camp was expanded
and eventually its area peaked at about 197 acres that
stretched north of today’s Kamienskiego street to
Jerozolimska street and east of Swoszowicka street to
Heltmana street. Since the end of World War II the site has
been left undeveloped in commemoration of the martyrdom of
the KL Plaszow inmates.
Almost no trace of the Plaszow camp has survived except few
nondescript buildings such as the former villa of the
commandant. The nazis have enough time and spared no effort
to liquidate the Plaszow concentration camp thoroughly in
the fall of 1944. The inmates were made to dismantle all
timber shacks that served as their living quarters as well
as other facilities, bodies were exhumed from mass graves
and cremated on the site with ashes trucked away. Nowadays
the place looks like a wasteland but the municipality plans
to turn it soon into an ingenious commemorative park.
Points of interest
Massive granite monument towers over Kamienskiego street,
one of Krakow’s busy arteries, on the southern edge of the
former Plaszow concentration camp. Designed by accomplished
architect Witold Ceckiewicz, it was erected in 1964 to
commemorate the victims of all nationalities. It bears an
inscription in Polish that reads ‘In homage to martyrs
murdered by the Nazi perpetrators of genocide in the years
1941 to 1945’.
Another memorial, a boulder with a plaque, is situated on
the sites’ northeast edge, at Jerozolimska street.
Former ‘villa’ of the camp commandant stands in disrepair at
22 Heltmana street. The gray building at 3 Jerozolimska
street once served as a barracks housing the camp’s
detachment of the SS troops while its basement contained a
torture chamber.
An inanimate nature reserve called Rezerwat Bonarka abuts on
the monument at Kamienskiego street. The 2.3-hectare area
extending west to Swoszowicka street has been turned into a
reserve in 1961 to protect the limestone rocks that once
formed the seabed of a Jurassic lagoon.
The Plaszow concentration camp adjoined Kamieniolom Liban,
an old limestone quarry started in 1884. The now derelict
quarry, situated west of the Plaszow site up Swoszowicka
street, was turned into a penal camp of the nazi
‘construction service’ – Das Straflager des Baudienstes im
Generalgouvernement. Between 1942 and 1944 its inmates
worked in ghastly conditions suffering from exhaustion,
starvation, maltreatment, sunstroke in summers and exposure
in winters; many died. Wartime victims of the Liban camp are
commemorated by a monument of 1948 but otherwise there is no
trace of the camp and the abandoned quarry might be
dangerous for trespassers.
Prehistoric Mound of Krak, one of
Krakow’s mysterious ancient barrows, overlooks
this part of the city from the top of Krzemionki hill just
north of the Plaszow camp and straight above the Liban
quarry.
Access to the site of the Plaszow concentration camp
Undulating grassland once occupied by the Plaszow camp
stretches between Krakow’s two thruways, Kamienskiego street
and Wielicka street, that meet slightly to southeast of the
place. Driving from the city center it’s more convenient to
take Wielicka and turn right to Jerozolinska street (the
third side street after the overpass at Powstancow
Wielkopolskich expressway).
The former site of the Plaszow concentration camp can be
easily reached by public transport. There are several tram
and bus lines linking the area with downtown Krakow. The
nearest stops are Dworcowa at Wielicka street and Bonarka at
Kamienskiego street. The former seems more convenient as
trams numbers 3, 6, 13, 24, 29, and 50 plus bus 502 connect
it directly with central Krakow. The latter, at Kamienskiego
street, is a request stop of buses 103, 144, 164, 173, and
179.
Obviously there is no admission fee for and the site may be
roamed freely at any time but some caution should be
exercised as the place remains practically unattended.
Plaszow: Museum Memorial Site in the making
In January 2017 the municipality of Krakow, the Jewish Religious Community of
Krakow, and the City of Krakow Historical Museum signed
an agreement that paves the way for the creation of the
Museum Memorial Site commemorating victims of KL Plaszow.
Hopefully, it will open on the grounds of the former Nazi
concentration camp before 2021, if everything goes
well.
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