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KL
Plaszow, Krakow’s Nazi Camp for Slave Labor
Krakow’s
wartime concentration camp in the city’s right-bank district
of Plaszow was hell on earth even if in terms of the sheer
volume of atrocities it paled in comparison with such
conglomerates of the nazi death industry as Auschwitz
or Majdanek. At its peak capacity the Plaszow camp
incarcerated 25,000 inmates at one time: men, women, and
children. In total, over three years of its existence, roughly
150,000 people suffered imprisonment here – Jews of Krakow
and from Poland’s other cities as well as Hungary,
Czechoslovakia, France, Belgium, and Romania but also numerous
Poles and Romanies. They were subjected to inhumane treatment,
hellish living conditions, diseases, starvation, grueling
slave labor, frequent beatings, and torture, and many fell
victim to brutal killings. More than 80,000 of the Plaszow
inmates died before the end of World War II, most in the gas
chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau.
Origins
of the Plaszow camp dated back to the summer of 1940 when the
German occupation authorities set up in the area a
forced-labor camp for the Polish prisoners. The proper
concentration camp was built in Plaszow in 1942. On January
14, 1945 the last group of inmates left for Auschwitz.
Geography
of Krakow’s Plaszow concentration camp.
The
concentration camp took up the southwest outskirts of Plaszow
district which is part of Krakow’s Podgorze borough on the
right bank of Wisla river. The Plaszow proper – the Polish
correct spelling Płaszów, pronounced Puashoof – lies to
the northeast behind Krakow Plaszow train station at a crucial
railroad junction.
The
KL Plaszow concentration camp was situated just four
kilometers or so southeast from Krakow’s Rynek Glowny
central square. At first, it was set up on grounds of two
adjoining Jewish cemeteries, one at 25 Jerozolimska street,
another at 8 Abrahama street. Later on the camp was expanded
and eventually its area peaked at about 197 acres that
stretched north of today’s Kamienskiego street to
Jerozolimska street and east of Swoszowicka street to Heltmana
street. Since the end of World War II the site has been left
undeveloped in commemoration of the martyrdom of the KL
Plaszow inmates.
Almost
no trace of the Plaszow camp has survived except few
nondescript buildings such as the former villa of the
commandant. The nazis have enough time and spared no effort to
liquidate the Plaszow concentration camp thoroughly in the
fall of 1944. The inmates were made to dismantle all timber
shacks that served as their living quarters as well as other
facilities, bodies were exhumed from mass graves and cremated
on the site with ashes trucked away. Nowadays the place looks
like a wasteland but the municipality plans to turn it soon
into an ingenious commemorative park.
Points
of interest
Massive
granite monument towers over Kamienskiego street, one of
Krakow’s busy arteries, on the southern edge of the former
Plaszow concentration camp. Designed by accomplished architect
Witold Ceckiewicz, it was erected in 1964 to commemorate the
victims of all nationalities. It bears an inscription in
Polish that reads ‘In homage to martyrs murdered by the
Nazi perpetrators of genocide in the years 1941 to 1945’.
Another
memorial, a boulder with a plaque, is situated on the sites’
northeast edge, at Jerozolimska street.
Former
‘villa’ of the camp commandant stands in disrepair at 22
Heltmana street. The gray building at 3 Jerozolimska street
once served as a barracks housing the camp’s detachment of
the SS troops while its basement contained a torture
chamber.
An
inanimate nature reserve called Rezerwat Bonarka abuts on the
monument at Kamienskiego street. The 2.3-hectare area
extending west to Swoszowicka street has been turned into a
reserve in 1961 to protect the limestone rocks that once
formed the seabed of a Jurassic lagoon.
The
Plaszow concentration camp adjoined Kamieniolom Liban, an old
limestone quarry started in 1884. The now derelict quarry,
situated west of the Plaszow site up Swoszowicka street, was
turned into a penal camp of the nazi ‘construction
service’ – Das Straflager des Baudienstes im
Generalgouvernement. Between 1942 and 1944 its inmates worked
in ghastly conditions suffering from exhaustion, starvation,
maltreatment, sunstroke in summers and exposure in winters;
many died. Wartime victims of the Liban camp are commemorated
by a monument of 1948 but otherwise there is no trace of the
camp and the abandoned quarry might be dangerous for
trespassers.
Prehistoric
Mound of Krak, one of Krakow’s mysterious ancient
barrows,
overlooks this part of the city from the top of Krzemionki
hill just north of the Plaszow camp and straight above the
Liban quarry.
Access
to the site of the Plaszow concentration camp
Undulating
grassland once occupied by the Plaszow camp stretches between
Krakow’s two thruways, Kamienskiego street and Wielicka
street, that meet slightly to southeast of the place. Driving
from the city center it’s more convenient to take Wielicka
and turn right to Jerozolinska street (the third side street
after the overpass at Powstancow Wielkopolskich
expressway).
The
former site of the Plaszow concentration camp can be easily
reached by public transport. There are several tram and bus
lines linking the area with downtown Krakow. The nearest stops
are Dworcowa at Wielicka street and Bonarka at Kamienskiego
street. The former seems more convenient as trams numbers 3,
6, 13, 24, 29, and 50 plus bus 502 connect it directly with
central Krakow. The latter, at Kamienskiego street, is a
request stop of buses 103, 144, 164, 173, and 179.
Obviously
there is no admission fee for and the site may be roamed
freely at any time but some caution should be exercised as the
place remains practically unattended.
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